The fabric is seen at the bottom and the pattern is repeated 6 times on the feeder. So we have 6 paths.
Since we have 8100 warp threads across the width, the pattern is composed of 8100/6 = 1350 threads doing a different job.
Indeed, the first thread of the first path does the same job as the first thread of the paths 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.The second thread of the first path does the same job as the second path of the paths 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.The third thread of the first path does the same work as the third thread of paths 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.
The same is true of the other 1347 sons of each road.
The wires 1, 1351, 2701, 4051, 5401 and 6751 are hooked to the first hook.Then to the second hook the wires 2, 1352, 2702, 4052, 5402 and 6753
And so on and this is what we see on this sketch, where there are only 2 hooks for better legibility.
Thus a single mechanism will suffice for this drawing in 6 ways.It goes without saying that the finer and tighter the fabric, the more hooks will be needed for the same pattern.
Principles of fashioned fabric
We have seen that the patterned fabric was that which presents figurative and not geometric (or very complex geometric) drawings. To be able to execute such a drawing, it is necessary to be able to have the possibility of controlling the lifting of the wires individually, ie one by one.
Frames, even in large numbers, do not allow this. Only the mechanics of fashion (Jacquard, Vincenzi or Verdol) allows.
Complexity and diversity:
As we will see later in our study, the complexity of the fabrics at 2, 3, 4, or even 5 chains, the size of the drawings and their complexity led men, thanks to their ingenuity, to devise tricks to increase the Application fields. Here we describe the simplest arrangement and arrangement, but the principle remains the same in all cases.
Basic principle :
Thus, the warp threads, instead of being passed through (smooth) meshes supported by a frame, are passed over an individual (smooth) mesh. When this mesh (smooth) is lifted, only this thread will be lifted. By passing each thread of the chain in a single mesh, we will have as many individual meshes as threads in our chain. By raising n meshes, n corresponding yarns will be lifted.
Let us imagine that we wanted to make a pattern measuring 90 cm wide, and that our chain has a width of 90 cm with 12 threads to centimeters. The design will spread over the entire width of the fabric ...
Calculations:
The chain therefore comprises: 90 cm x 12 wires = 1080 wiresThe 90 cm pattern will span the entire width of the fabric using the 1080 threads.
We will have 1080 threads each on a single (smooth) mesh, a total of 1080 meshes. When lifting a stitch, a thread will be lifted. By raising the 1080 mesh, all the warp yarns will be lifted.
Using the Shaped Mechanics:
The mechanism is composed of a number of hooks which it can lift upwards.
If a twine is attached to the end of a hook of the mechanics, and at the other end of this string an individual mesh is fastened in which one and only one warp thread passes, Thread chain.
Here then is the work of a mechanics of fashion: to raise hooks, at the lower extremity of which are attached meshes in which pass the threads of chain ...
Child up to that point, right?
To be able to individually raise our 1080 warp threads, we need:
1080 warp threads1080 individual meshes (smooth)1080 twine (arches)1080 mechanical hooksThe molded mechanics were constructed in different models featuring more or less hooks. Without going into details (we will do it precisely later), we find machines with about 400 to 1300 hooks. There are also small mechanics of 104 and 208 hooks of which we shall speak later.
So, you will say, if my fabric makes 90 threads per cm instead of 12, I will need 90 cm x 90 threads / cm = 8100 hooks?
This mechanism with 8100 hooks does not exist. Sometimes two shapes are used. But here it would take 7, which is not possible.
So what to do?
If large shapes have a pattern that can spread over the entire width of the fabric, it is nevertheless necessary to know that:
These fabrics generally have a width of less than 90 cm: most often 54 cm, width subsequently taken up by the wallpaper. It is no longer necessary that 8100/2 = 4050 hooks.The pattern which extends over the entire width of the fabric is generally symmetrical, the left half of the fabric being the inverse of the right half. It is not necessary then that 4050/2 = 2025 hooks.But more often the pattern is less wide and repeats n times over the width of the fabric. We then speak of a pattern in 2, 3, 4, ... 10 paths.
Now look at the sketch below:
Principles of fashioned fabric