- Home
- Resurrection ▾
-
Learn ▾
- Free library
- Glossary
- Documents
- Initiation
-
Shaped fabrics
- Introduction
- Popularization
- Definitions
- Le métier de façonné
- Principes du façonné
- Mécaniques de façonné
- Le jeu des crochets
- Les cartons
- Chaîne des cartons
- Mécanique 104 en détail
- Pour en finir
- Montage façonné
- Empoutage 1/3
- Empoutage 2/3
- Empoutage 3/3
- Punching, hanging and dip
- Autres façonnés
- Façonnés et Islam
-
Cours de tissage 1912
- Bâti d'un métier
- Le rouleau arrière
- Les bascules
- Formation du pas
- Position de organes
- Mécanique 104 Jacquard
- Fonctionnement 104
- Lisage des cartons
- Le battant du métier
- Le régulateur
- Réduction et régulateur
- Mise au métier d'une chaîne
- Mise en route du métier
- Navettes à soie
- Battage
- Ourdissage mécanique
- Préparation chaînes et trames
- Equipment ▾
- Chronicles ▾
- Fabrics ▾
- Techniques ▾
- Culture ▾
- Language ▾
Cording (1/3)
Cording (1/3)
The elements that connect the hooks of the mechanical to the warp threads are, from top to bottom:
The crane board which is at the base of the mechanism and has as many holes as there are hooks, the heel of each hook resting on one of these holes.
The collar, which is a cord loop, one end of which is equipped with a lightweight metal snap hook. The end not equipped with the snap hook passes through a hole in the snare board and is hooked to the heel of the hook.
The arch, which is a solid double wire, one end of which is provided with a loop clinging to the snap hook of the collar.
Cutting boards, located on a frame placed between the chain and the mechanics. These are wooden planks pierced with holes about 1 to 2 mm in diameter arranged in a staggered arrangement. Each arch passes through one of these holes. As will be seen later, the dimensions of these boards and the number of rows of holes vary according to the assembly used. The role of these boards is to order and hold the arcades in place and distribute them in the width that the fabric must have.
The meshes and their spindles. The most common mesh is composed of an eyelet (link), made of metal or glass with three holes. Through the central hole passes the warp thread. The upper hole passes a loop of very fine string connected at the top to the lower end of the arch. And through the lower hole passes a loop at the lower end of which is fixed a spindle, long leaden lead or metal rod whose purpose is to plumb the arcade so that it is always tense.
The illustrations below show these different elements and how they are assembled together.
Overview of the link body.
In short, it is found that each arcade / mesh assembly is equivalent to a frame that would comprise only one mesh for a single warp yarn. In other words, a set of 1200 arcades and 1200 mesh spindles will allow us what we would allow a remiss of 1,200 frames to a (smooth) mesh, close to which a shed of 1200 frames would have a thickness of more than .. 12 meters !!!
